diff --git a/OshPark_v4_board_building.txt b/OshPark_v4_board_building.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5323c6f --- /dev/null +++ b/OshPark_v4_board_building.txt @@ -0,0 +1,57 @@ +Notes and disclaimer on the Osh Park Board: + +This is not a perfect board. I'll be the first to admit this. It most certainly has short commings. It is designed +to use an arduino pro mini board of the 3.3v flavor. Do not attempt to use a 5.0v version of this board as +the Hope RFM69HCW will be destroyed. + +1) The SMA foot print I found online is not a perfect match. The copper pad for the signal pin on the back +of the board needs to be exposed. I do this by gently scraping off the coating with a knife. I also found I had to + cut off two grounds and bend the signal pin to get it to fit the tickeness of the board. May just be the cheap SMA +I got online! + +2) I inadvertainly place the pin assignments for GPS backwards meaning it needs to be mounted on the back of the board. +Refer to JPGs. + +3) The foot print for the Arduino pro mini 3.3 volt has plated through holes that are not connectd to anything. +The only plated through holes that should be used are the two rows of header as shown in the photos. + +4) I could not find a foot print for the RFM69HCW and rolled my own. I will publish OSH Park files here + at a future date including my foot print. + +This board is designed for the RFM69HCW, 433 or 915 MHz chips. It will not work with any other variation +of the RFM69xxx family. It will not work with LORA chips. It most certainly will not work with an +RFM22b!!!!! + +Assembly: + +1) The boards I recieved work perfectly . I recommend assembly in this order. + +2) Ring out the bare board before assembly. Why not? If you do not know what that means google it. + +3) Tin with solder one corner pad only. Place the rfm69hcw follwing the orientation as printed on the board. +Heat and relow the solder to stick the IC to the board. Make sure it is oriented evenly on each pad before + continuing. + +4) Once happy with the orientation solder another corner pad but more securely. The a third pad. The go back +and ensure the first pad you soldered had a good elctrical bond. If not reflow again. + +5) Solder every other pad and give it time to cool. Go back and finish solder the rest of the pad. + +6) I next solder onthe 2 12xpin headers. I like headers for socketing the arduino. It allows reuse. BUT,... +the beast way I found to do this was to first put pins on the arduino, then press the headers on the pins, +then into the board and solder as above. + +7) The board requires the serial adapter to program but can operate with the GPS using a 5V-12V battery + on the RAW pin, on the P1 header. + +8) If it does not work out of the can, then please ring it out again. It is not impossible to have +created a solder bridge between pads of the rfm69 or...an open due to not enough solder between pads. + +:) + +Good luck. + + + + +